We continue with only some kind of ratio of west and south as a direction. We end up at Rialto beach north of La Push. It’s just after 9pm and the nearly full moon illuminates the beach so Pete and I decide an evening walk up beach is in order. Pete is sure of himself but I keep him on the leash. I enjoy his easy going temperament. The ocean crashes beside us as moonlight dances across the wavetops. It’s a little early for stopping for the night so we decide to drive around the other side of the Quillayute river to La Push proper.
The reservation always feels a little funny to me, like a military base without fences or a guardhouse. The reservations is like an odd type of chemotherapy treatment for the cancer of expansion and what some mistakenly consider as progress.
I pull into the marina parking lot, as I am accustomed to do in most any town that has them. I study the boats, tied up to their lines, their stories. We wait long enough for a fish boat that enters the harbor, making it’s way to a slip. Pete sleeps on my lap in calm quiet of the night. It’s after 10 and I can feel the boat’s and it’s tethers. It’s skipper, tired, makes fast and goes through his routine. This gets turned off, this gets left on, this gets shut, this gets left open. He walks up the dock and starts his truck and lets it warm up. I wait for him to leave so I can experience this arrival to its finish. He leaves. I hold Pete’s sleeping head, start the van and leave. My arrive in La Push is at an end.
We continue to the highway until running across a state campground along the Bogachiel river. It’s quiet and sparsely occupied. Pete and I decide this will be our spot for evening. Though the day I have been listening to the master cut of James Harper’s new album. The music resonates with me. It’s presence creates an equilibrium between the other worldly sense of now and the thoughts from what sometimes feels like my drunk monkey mind that so often prefers rolling in the past. The album reminds my of the contemplative riffs from the soundtrack of Jim Jarmusch film Dead Man. Pete and slumber off off to sleep as Neil Young cascades across his fretboard in my mind.
It’s not too cold but Pete decide he wants in the sleeping bag. This little 15 pound west highland terrier sleeps with the same abandon that my boys did when they little. There is no greater gift than cradling a being while they drift in the sea of the subconscious. We sleep until 8am. The morning is foggy and Pete and I repack and depart.
I was only spending one evening out so I decided not to bother with packing my camping kitchen. I now regret this decision, miles from nowhere and I am without hot coffee. I don’t eat breakfast but coffee is sorrily missed. I look forward to getting to the next town and finding a coffee shop.
We head down the highway until I make an impulsive turn onto the Hoh Mainline road. I’ve never traveled this road. It winds through miles of DNR land in various states of undress until you get about as far as you can from the highway and then you will find the Olympic Corrections Center. As I slowly drive past the compound I can see men walking the yard in the damp foggy morning. The only thing that separates us is a fence. The incarceration industry is alive and well in the Hoh rainforest.
I do not linger, and beside a brief stop at the high bridge over Snahapish river we make our way back to the highway. I bid this Orwellian detour farewell and continue my search for coffee. We stay on 101 until a turn towards Moclips to get us back to the ocean. Soon we enter Pacific Beach and ultimately the Surf House Coffee shop. The cafe smells of good coffee and I order a Venti with an extra shot so the barista doesn’t have burn that forth shot. He gives it to me but says his machine can pull singles and we start a discussion about coffee. I’ve been roasting my own coffee for years but really don’t know much about the larger coffee serving industry. I chuckle to myself thinking 30 years ago the only decisions for coffee drinking was cream and or sugar. After we exhaust the topic of oxidation and crema it’s time to continue on. Pete waits anxiously, not caring about my cup of coffee, but where’s the beach.